T-Shirt Morea
This sewing pattern is optimized for fine knit fabrics (Jersey).
Cut the pattern pieces as follows:
| A | Back | Cut one on fold |
|---|---|---|
| B | Front | Cut one on fold |
| C | Sleeve | Cut two (mirrored) |
| D | Neckband | Cut one on fold |
This pattern is designed for stretchy fabrics. Therefore, all construction seams should be sewn with a stretch stitch. This can be an overlock stitch, but a zigzag stitch on a home sewing machine usually works well, too.
Bust dart
Fold the bust darts so that the right side of the fabric is inside. To do this, place the two notches on the side of the dart on top of each other. You can draw a guide from these notches to the chest point (e.g. with tailor's chalk). Then sew this line from the outside in with a normal straight stitch. The seam is not backstitched at the bust point. Instead, sew a few stitches past the bust point and then knot the yarn. You can use a needle to push the knot very close to the fabric. Then iron the bust darts down.
Close shoulder seam
Depending on the individual measurements and configuration, the sleeve is designed with a shoulder dart. This dart gives the sleeve the same fit as a set-in sleeve and, so to speak, forms the shoulder seam.
First, close this dart and finish the edge.
Set in sleeves
Note that the sleeves are not symmetrical; the back sleeve is slightly wider—that’s the one with the double notch in the seam allowance. Of course, that edge needs to go to the back piece.
Place the back piece in front of you with the right side of the fabric facing up, and pin the sleeves—with the right side facing down—to the curved edge. The double notch in the sleeve should align with the double notch in the back piece.
You can sew this seam first, or repeat the process right away with the front piece. This time, the single notches get lined up.
Sew all four sleeve seams.
Prepare neck band
Fold the neckband with the short edges right sides together and sew along the short edge using a straight stitch.
Then, press the seam allowance open and fold the band lengthwise. The collar is now doubled over, and the seam allowance is concealed inside.