Hoodie Sage
This sewing pattern is optimized for french terry or fleece
Cut the pattern pieces as follows:
| A | Back | Cut one on fold |
|---|---|---|
| B | Front | Cut one on fold |
| C | Sleeve | Cut two (mirrored) |
| D | Hood | Cut two (mirrored) |
| E | Hood middle part | Cut one |
| F | Wrist cuff | Cut two (mirrored) |
| G | Hip cuff front | Cut one on fold |
| H | Hip cuff back | Cut one on fold |
| I | Cut one on fold |
This pattern is designed for stretchy fabrics. Therefore, all construction seams should be sewn with a stretch stitch. This can be an overlock stitch, but a zigzag stitch on a home sewing machine usually works well, too.
Bust dart
Fold the bust darts so that the right side of the fabric is inside. To do this, place the two notches on the side of the dart on top of each other. You can draw a guide from these notches to the chest point (e.g. with tailor's chalk). Then sew this line from the outside in with a normal straight stitch. The seam is not backstitched at the bust point. Instead, sew a few stitches past the bust point and then knot the yarn. You can use a needle to push the knot very close to the fabric. Then iron the bust darts down.
Fold the two long slanted edges of the pocket over and topstitch them 2 cm from the edge using a twin needle or zigzag stitch. Then cut back the seam allowance.
Place the pocket according to the markings. Fold the seam allowance inwards and sew the pocket in place at the top and bottom.
TIP: For the short version, the pocket ends with the bottom edge of the top. In this case, do not fold the bottom edge over, but just topstitch the two short slanted edges. When sewing on the waistband, the bottom edge of the pocket is then secured and serged.
Close shoulder seam
Depending on the individual measurements and configuration, the sleeve is designed with a shoulder dart. This dart gives the sleeve the same fit as a set-in sleeve and, so to speak, forms the shoulder seam.
First, close this dart and finish the edge.
Set in sleeves
Note that the sleeves are not symmetrical; the back sleeve is slightly wider—that’s the one with the double notch in the seam allowance. Of course, that edge needs to go to the back piece.
Place the back piece in front of you with the right side of the fabric facing up, and pin the sleeves—with the right side facing down—to the curved edge. The double notch in the sleeve should align with the double notch in the back piece.
You can sew this seam first, or repeat the process right away with the front piece. This time, the single notches get lined up.
Sew all four sleeve seams.
Construct hood
Sew the middle section of the hood first to the curved edge of one side of the hood, then to the other side of the hood.
Transfer the markings for the eyelets onto the hood and iron a small piece of interfacing onto the back of each one. Make sure that the interfacing is not too large and will later be covered by the folded edge of the hood.
Then attach the eyelets. You can find out exactly how to do this in the instructions for the eyelets.
Unfold the bias tape and sew it 3-4 millimetres next to the front edge of the hood on the right side of the fabric. This is how the edge will be finished later.
Thread the cord through the two eyelets and fold the front edge of the hood 3 cm around them. The bias tape is then sewn close to the edge.
When inserting the hood, the two snaps in the lower edge meet the shoulder seams. Overlap the front of the two hood pieces by two cm.
Sew the hood in place with the toplock or a zigzag stitch all the way round.
All that's missing are the cuffs!
The two sleeve cuffs are folded right sides together, sewn together at the short sides and then folded lengthwise.
The waistband consists of two parts, which differ depending on the individual measurements. Mark which belongs to the front and which to the back and sew the two pieces together at the short sides. The waistband is then also folded lengthways.
Pin the three cuffs to the hoodie and sew them in place with an elasticated seam.
Tip: You can sew along the inside of the sleeve for the cuffs, this is easier.
