Cropped Shirt Crokus

This sewing pattern is optimized for fine knit fabrics (Jersey).

Cut the pattern pieces as follows:

A Back Cut one on fold
B Front Cut one on fold
C Sleeve Cut two (mirrored)
D Neckband Cut one on fold

Bust dart

Fold the bust darts so that the right side of the fabric is inside. To do this, place the two notches on the side of the dart on top of each other. You can draw a guide from these notches to the chest point (e.g. with tailor's chalk). Then sew this line from the outside in with a normal straight stitch. The seam is not backstitched at the bust point. Instead, sew a few stitches past the bust point and then knot the yarn. You can use a needle to push the knot very close to the fabric. Then iron the bust darts down.

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Close shoulder seams

Sew the back and front pieces together at the shoulders.

Set in sleeves

Note that the sleeves are not symmetrical, the back part is slightly wider, this is the part with the double nick in the seam allowance. Of course, this also belongs on the back.

As always: right side on right side. Position the notch at the top of the sleeve on the shoulder seam. Then bring the four corners and then the notches together. The double notch is joined to the double nick, the single nick to the single notch.

Distribute the remaining fabric evenly and pin everything in place. Please remember that you want to line up the stitching line, not the seam allowance. Distribute the width evenly.

The sleeve lies at the bottom of the stitch plate. Sew slowly and keep smoothing out the pleats. Even if it is tempting, try not to stretch the fabric.

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Prepare neck band

Fold the neckband with the short edges right sides together and sew along the short edge using a straight stitch.

Then, press the seam allowance open and fold the band lengthwise. The collar is now doubled over, and the seam allowance is concealed inside.

Sew on neckband

Place the neckband on the right side of the neckline, aligning the markings on the band with the shoulder seam. The neckband is slightly shorter than the neckline and must be stretched accordingly. 

Sew the neckband in place all the way around using a stretch stitch.

Close side seams

Now sew the side seams together, from the sleeve to the hem.

Hems

Fold the hems inward and secure them with an elastic stitch.