Cropped Shirt Crokus
This sewing pattern is optimized for fine knit fabrics (Jersey).
Cut the pattern pieces as follows:
| A | Back | Cut one on fold |
|---|---|---|
| B | Front | Cut one on fold |
| C | Sleeve | Cut two (mirrored) |
| D | Neckband | Cut one on fold |
Bust dart
Fold the bust darts so that the right side of the fabric is inside. To do this, place the two notches on the side of the dart on top of each other. You can draw a guide from these notches to the chest point (e.g. with tailor's chalk). Then sew this line from the outside in with a normal straight stitch. The seam is not backstitched at the bust point. Instead, sew a few stitches past the bust point and then knot the yarn. You can use a needle to push the knot very close to the fabric. Then iron the bust darts down.
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Set in sleeves
Note that the sleeves are not symmetrical, the back part is slightly wider, this is the part with the double nick in the seam allowance. Of course, this also belongs on the back.
As always: right side on right side. Position the notch at the top of the sleeve on the shoulder seam. Then bring the four corners and then the notches together. The double notch is joined to the double nick, the single nick to the single notch.
Distribute the remaining fabric evenly and pin everything in place. Please remember that you want to line up the stitching line, not the seam allowance. Distribute the width evenly.
The sleeve lies at the bottom of the stitch plate. Sew slowly and keep smoothing out the pleats. Even if it is tempting, try not to stretch the fabric.
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Prepare neck band
Fold the neckband with the short edges right sides together and sew along the short edge using a straight stitch.
Then, press the seam allowance open and fold the band lengthwise. The collar is now doubled over, and the seam allowance is concealed inside.